I think all is working again now. Please leave a comment on a photo somewhere if something you need is not working still.

Main Menu
User Login
User Name
Password



View By Aircraft
Users Aircraft

Browse Images

Virtual Aerodrome Image Browser ( Small / Large ) Show : All | Parked | Flying | Build | Aerial | Reference
Page (13 in total) :  <<   4   5   6   7   8  [ 9 ]  10   11   12   13  [ < Prev ] [ Next > ]
Hangar Aircraft Category Date Preview
David DuckettDumas Kit #1815,DeHavilland DH89 Dragon RapideBuild27-Mar-10 22:33
Views : 1034
The cowling is not attached.
David DuckettDumas Kit #1815,DeHavilland DH89 Dragon RapideBuild26-Mar-10 19:26
Views : 1027
The CA and zapper/kicker may seem like overkill but it works and stands up to the sanding and shaping.
David DuckettDumas Kit #1815,DeHavilland DH89 Dragon RapideBuild26-Mar-10 19:22
Views : 942
That's white putty on the one at top. The piece sitting on the other is molded wrong in that the edges are more round than 90* and that would leave a gap between the pieces when gluing together. The bottom piece is fine. The two front cowlings are also defective so a call to Dumas, who lives here, fixed that.
David DuckettDumas Kit #1815,DeHavilland DH89 Dragon RapideBuild26-Mar-10 19:17
Views : 1034
To glue the plastic pieces together: The two halves are clamped together and the plastic weld cement is applied and let cure for at least 15 seconds. I let it sit for at least 30 minutes. Then a styrene rod is bent to shape and glued into the groove where the two pieces are clamped and that sits for awhile, too. Then add a bead of medium CA on both sides of the rod inside the pieces and hit it with a shot of "zapper", accelerant, and let the whole thing sit overnite, clamps in place. Next day remove the clamps and trim off as much of the plastic as you can with good scissors which should leave about 1/16" or less of excess plastic. I found rough sandpaper to be the best way to remove the excess as it's quite tough after all the gluing. When it gets to a fairly smooth surface apply white putty with a spatlua and let it dry for about 30 minutes and then sand with 150 sandpaper. Any imperfections can be filled with regular filler and sanded with a finer grade sandpaper. The two finished pieces here have also been painted white along the seams.
David DuckettDumas Kit #1815,DeHavilland DH89 Dragon RapideBuild26-Mar-10 18:57
Views : 1101
Well...it should have been a bit more shallow. This is easily fixed with wood and filler but it might be a problem on the flying versions.
David DuckettDumas Kit #1815,DeHavilland DH89 Dragon RapideBuild26-Mar-10 18:55
Views : 889
After the other one, I knew the pencil outline is too much so I cut the opening smaller.
Hangar Aircraft Category Date Preview
David DuckettDumas Kit #1815,DeHavilland DH89 Dragon RapideBuild26-Mar-10 18:53
Views : 870
No patterns are provided so....I traced the rib outline onto the plastic.
SteveMDumas Kit #1815,DeHavilland DH89 Dragon RapideBuild25-Mar-10 22:33
Views : 1032
Ready for the leading edge laminations then the stringers.
SteveMDumas Kit #1815,DeHavilland DH89 Dragon RapideBuild25-Mar-10 22:32
Views : 1115
I've decided to stick with the recommended MPI EPU-3 motors, GWS 7x6 props, and TP 2S 1350mAh battery. Each motor drew about 2.75A on a 50% full battery so I hope the little Pixie-7P will be able to handle the current of two motors on a fully charged battery. Regardless, there is no need for a 25A ESC as is recommended in the directions.
David DuckettDumas Kit #1815,DeHavilland DH89 Dragon RapideBuild25-Mar-10 17:42
Views : 964
David DuckettDumas Kit #1815,DeHavilland DH89 Dragon RapideBuild25-Mar-10 17:41
Views : 988
David DuckettDumas Kit #1815,DeHavilland DH89 Dragon RapideBuild25-Mar-10 17:40
Views : 972
The wings were covered wet and a coat of clear nitrate dope was applied to all surfaces. The firewall/motor mount is glued in place.
Page (13 in total) :  <<   4   5   6   7   8  [ 9 ]  10   11   12   13  [ < Prev ] [ Next > ]