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| LASTWOODSMAN | Herr Engineering HRR 105, Fokker D-7 | Parked | 03-Oct-17 22:27 |  | | Views : 530 | | Closeup of the two sizes, and two colors, of bolt heads on the two bolt circles on the prop hub, with one dressmaker's pin in the middle of the hub. The bolt heads are not exactly perfectly located, but, it was the best I could do. |
| LASTWOODSMAN | Herr Engineering HRR 105, Fokker D-7 | Parked | 03-Oct-17 22:23 |  | | Views : 585 | | Here is the finished prop, with that 90 degree bend of the prop shaft glued into the recessed trough in the propeller face behind the prop hub, and the removeable nose block, all assembled to the prop. |
| LASTWOODSMAN | Herr Engineering HRR 105, Fokker D-7 | Parked | 03-Oct-17 22:12 |  | | Views : 572 | | Here I started putting in the silver smaller Dressmaker's pins. I centered the hub with a pin in the middle and then 2 more pins. I then drilled small 0.025" holes through the hub holes and into the prop wood, but not too far. Then I cut the pins short so as not to go through the other side of the prop. Then I used needle nose plliers to start inserting the 0.023" diam pins into the predrilled holes, then pushed the heads of the pins down the rest of the way, even with the hub face. I did not even need to use any glue - the last part of the pin shafts went through undrilled balsa. |
| LASTWOODSMAN | Herr Engineering HRR 105, Fokker D-7 | Parked | 03-Oct-17 11:08 |  | | Views : 555 | | Six large bolt heads are in, and six smaller bolt heads to go. Starting to look like a prop hub! |
| LASTWOODSMAN | Herr Engineering HRR 105, Fokker D-7 | Parked | 03-Oct-17 11:05 |  | | Views : 548 | | Here I have started to put in the larger brass coated Escutcheon pin heads into the prop hub to simulate bolt heads. I used side cutter pliers to snip off the shaft below the head, to just under 1/16" length so that they would not protrude past the 1/16" balsa plate of the hub. I made a little tool, at the bottom right, from a piece of file folder cardboard. I cut a little slot in the cardboard for the short pin shaft to sit in, with the head of the pin sitting on top of the file folder cardboard. I held the cardboard, lining the pin head up with the hole in the prop hub, then pressed on the head to push the short shaft into the hole, and then slid the cardboard out. It was a snug fit and i didn't even need any glue. |
| LASTWOODSMAN | Herr Engineering HRR 105, Fokker D-7 | Parked | 02-Oct-17 15:47 |  | | Views : 535 | | The 90 degree bend at the tip of the prop shaft, will sit inside the small, recessed, groove slot trough. I made this trough using a steel ruler and the sideways tip of an awl, to push this trough into the balsa, at the front of the prop face, and going sideways for 6 mm from the prop shaft center. It will be glued in there deep enough, with 5 min Epoxy, in order to keep the front prop face flat, in order to receive the flat of the new prop hub. |
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| LASTWOODSMAN | Herr Engineering HRR 105, Fokker D-7 | Parked | 02-Oct-17 15:37 |  | | Views : 429 | | The six inner bolt circle holes were enlarged to the larger, brass-coated, Escutcheon pin shaft diameter (head = 3.0 mm diam , shaft = 0.050" diam), and the six outer circle holes were already enlarged just larger than the smaller, shiny steel, Dressmaker Pin shaft diameter (head = 1.5 mm diam , and shaft = 0.0235" diam). I then stuck all those pins into the new hub holes to check the fit and look. At the left, there are 4 small brass washers on the prop shaft between the new removeable prop block and the propeller. You can also see a 90 degree bend of 6mm, that I put into the front of the wire prop shaft. The old nose block with thrust button, and the old practise hub, are at the end of the wooden dowel. |
| LASTWOODSMAN | Herr Engineering HRR 105, Fokker D-7 | Parked | 02-Oct-17 15:25 |  | | Views : 314 | | I then inked on the cross hatch points on the two bolt circles with the green marker. On these "Xs", I pushed in starter holes, by eye, with an awl. I enlarged all of these holes by chasing through with a 0.0250" drill bit. The "old" design practise hub is on the left between the dime and the nickel. |
| LASTWOODSMAN | Herr Engineering HRR 105, Fokker D-7 | Parked | 02-Oct-17 15:20 |  | | Views : 299 | | This is for my new laminated 9 1/4" scale "AXIAL" prop I made a while back. I made a separate new removeable prop block, prop shaft, thrust button, and new prop hub assembly for this new prop, so I can interchange the 9 1/2" gray plastic prop and prop block, with the new AXIAL prop and block. I started out with an oversize piece of 1/16' blasa plate sheet for a hub plate, and stuck on a "nickel sized" circle of Chrome 'peel n stick' Trim Sheet on to it (centered with an upside down dress maker's pin), then I stuck a "dime sized" circle of Gold 'peel n stick' Trim Sheet onto the larger Chrome circle, also centering it on the same dress maker's pin. Then I used a green Sharpie permanent marker to mark the 12 location lines on which to locate 2 bolt circles for 6 bolt heads on each circle. |
| LASTWOODSMAN | Herr Engineering HRR 105, Fokker D-7 | Parked | 12-Jun-17 10:47 |  | | Views : 333 | | I am letting them thoroughly dry out for a week. A wise man once said, "Lighting is everything." - and so is focus. It is all NOT VERY EASY !! I took a lot of pics to arrive at this underside image, lit from ambient sunlight against vertical blinds. |
| LASTWOODSMAN | Herr Engineering HRR 105, Fokker D-7 | Parked | 09-Jun-17 10:37 |  | | Views : 340 | | After two weeks of patient daily thin coats of rattle can Krylon clear gloss, I have no globs or runs of clear - better quit while I am ahead ... Onwards to prop hub drawings and experiments ... on the practise Axial prop I mixed a little golden oak in with the "natural" stain - I call that prop "WORMWOOD" because of all the round head pin holes all over it ... |
| LASTWOODSMAN | Herr Engineering HRR 105, Fokker D-7 | Parked | 31-May-17 22:01 |  | | Views : 276 | | I will just have to call it the "weathered look" - next time I will mix it up 50/50 Golden Oak and Natural stain to get the lighter color I was after. At least the good laminated Axial came out just the right tinge of red, and the practice prop was "Natural" stain. Now for many thin layers of rattle can Krylon Gloss Clear coatings. |
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