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| LASTWOODSMAN | Herr Engineering HRR 105, Fokker D-7 | Parked | 02-Oct-17 15:37 |  | | Views : 492 | | The six inner bolt circle holes were enlarged to the larger, brass-coated, Escutcheon pin shaft diameter (head = 3.0 mm diam , shaft = 0.050" diam), and the six outer circle holes were already enlarged just larger than the smaller, shiny steel, Dressmaker Pin shaft diameter (head = 1.5 mm diam , and shaft = 0.0235" diam). I then stuck all those pins into the new hub holes to check the fit and look. At the left, there are 4 small brass washers on the prop shaft between the new removeable prop block and the propeller. You can also see a 90 degree bend of 6mm, that I put into the front of the wire prop shaft. The old nose block with thrust button, and the old practise hub, are at the end of the wooden dowel. |
| LASTWOODSMAN | Herr Engineering HRR 105, Fokker D-7 | Parked | 02-Oct-17 15:25 |  | | Views : 370 | | I then inked on the cross hatch points on the two bolt circles with the green marker. On these "Xs", I pushed in starter holes, by eye, with an awl. I enlarged all of these holes by chasing through with a 0.0250" drill bit. The "old" design practise hub is on the left between the dime and the nickel. |
| LASTWOODSMAN | Herr Engineering HRR 105, Fokker D-7 | Parked | 02-Oct-17 15:20 |  | | Views : 348 | | This is for my new laminated 9 1/4" scale "AXIAL" prop I made a while back. I made a separate new removeable prop block, prop shaft, thrust button, and new prop hub assembly for this new prop, so I can interchange the 9 1/2" gray plastic prop and prop block, with the new AXIAL prop and block. I started out with an oversize piece of 1/16' blasa plate sheet for a hub plate, and stuck on a "nickel sized" circle of Chrome 'peel n stick' Trim Sheet on to it (centered with an upside down dress maker's pin), then I stuck a "dime sized" circle of Gold 'peel n stick' Trim Sheet onto the larger Chrome circle, also centering it on the same dress maker's pin. Then I used a green Sharpie permanent marker to mark the 12 location lines on which to locate 2 bolt circles for 6 bolt heads on each circle. |
| LASTWOODSMAN | Herr Engineering HRR 105, Fokker D-7 | Parked | 12-Jun-17 10:47 |  | | Views : 385 | | I am letting them thoroughly dry out for a week. A wise man once said, "Lighting is everything." - and so is focus. It is all NOT VERY EASY !! I took a lot of pics to arrive at this underside image, lit from ambient sunlight against vertical blinds. |
| LASTWOODSMAN | Herr Engineering HRR 105, Fokker D-7 | Parked | 09-Jun-17 10:37 |  | | Views : 392 | | After two weeks of patient daily thin coats of rattle can Krylon clear gloss, I have no globs or runs of clear - better quit while I am ahead ... Onwards to prop hub drawings and experiments ... on the practise Axial prop I mixed a little golden oak in with the "natural" stain - I call that prop "WORMWOOD" because of all the round head pin holes all over it ... |
| LASTWOODSMAN | Herr Engineering HRR 105, Fokker D-7 | Parked | 31-May-17 22:01 |  | | Views : 332 | | I will just have to call it the "weathered look" - next time I will mix it up 50/50 Golden Oak and Natural stain to get the lighter color I was after. At least the good laminated Axial came out just the right tinge of red, and the practice prop was "Natural" stain. Now for many thin layers of rattle can Krylon Gloss Clear coatings. |
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| LASTWOODSMAN | Herr Engineering HRR 105, Fokker D-7 | Parked | 31-May-17 21:58 |  | | Views : 349 | | Just stained my 3 props after 2 wks of cleaning my apt! The small one Helice Eclair showed up with black darkened blotches on the blades - I don't know why - and I then made the mistake of brushing on a second layer of stain (golden oak) even though I knew it would darken it way darker (I thought I had overlapped the stain on the first try) and that did not work to remove those blotches!!! |
| LASTWOODSMAN | Herr Engineering HRR 105, Fokker D-7 | Parked | 24-May-17 13:03 |  | | Views : 350 | | My experiment with different wood stain colors and Krylon Gloss Clear Coatings, on some scrap lamination pieces from the prop block, to see what they look like. LEFT TO RIGHT : 1 - "Golden Oak" 2 - "Natural" 3 - "Mixture" : - 10 parts 'Natural', 1 part 'Cabernet' Red, and 1 part 'Golden Oak' (I like this one the best for my red and black Fokker D7), 4 - "American Walnut". Colors three and four are on the same piece of balsa scrap block laminate. |
| LASTWOODSMAN | Herr Engineering HRR 105, Fokker D-7 | Parked | 24-May-17 12:51 |  | | Views : 355 | | Three props are sanded down to 600 grit. Left to right : 9 1/4" laminated "AXIAL" for the 24" Fokker D7, 9 1/4" one piece "AXIAL" practise prop, 6 1/4" one piece "HELICE ECLAIR" for my 17 1/2" Fokker Eindecker E III. I am half way through building a good jig, to hold and easily remove, all 3 props, as this will take a long time to do it right, with many light thin layers of spray. |
| LASTWOODSMAN | Herr Engineering HRR 105, Fokker D-7 | Parked | 16-May-17 21:21 |  | | Views : 369 | | Bad pic - you can barely see it, head high, going left. I let her go with 300 winds and it immediately went into a sharp left turn and steep dive and CRASHED into the soft grass !!! The right stab was twisted from a broken leading edge where I had not put in a gusset. "If at first you don't succeed ..." I am determined to get this figured out and get some good flying pics like Mlriley does. Back to the drawing board and stab repair ... |
| LASTWOODSMAN | Herr Engineering HRR 105, Fokker D-7 | Parked | 16-May-17 21:14 |  | | Views : 396 | | Handwinding the rubber with the help of a couple of baseball fan buddies - can you ever do a lot of winds without breaking the rubber when you use a winder ! One 12" loop of 1/8" rubber, stretched and broken in, and lubed - I tested 300 winds = a 25 second power run, 450 winds = a 37 sec power run. |
| LASTWOODSMAN | Herr Engineering HRR 105, Fokker D-7 | Parked | 16-May-17 21:08 |  | | Views : 444 | | Winding Stooge, 22" Sig Cabinaire, me and Trapper - out to Jackson Park to give rubber band free flight a try. The Winding Stooge needed adjustments for the holes for the piano wire through the rear aluminum tube motor mount, as the plane would not fit - interference from the stab with the uprights of the stooge. |
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