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Guillows Series 500 - FW 190 by jace314. Viewed 1276 times. Build Thread Next Prev Click image to return. Image Comments jace314 09-Aug-11 15:46 Finished adding the horizontal, and verticals, and faired them in the best I could. I also added the cooling slots in the front. Everything is ready, and will be painting soon. jace314 09-Aug-11 21:29 Hey DD... What brand, and kinds of dope, or dopes do you use? I have Sig nitrate, and Areo butyrate and cant seem to pick which one is better for the intial adhesive to the open area framework on my models. This plane was done in the Sig Nitrate and had some moments where I couldnt get it to stick. Thanks David Duckett 10-Aug-11 08:52 I use Sig nitrate dope. "It is intended for use as an initial surface preparation only...controlled shrinkage...better adhesion...higher solid content than butyrate for faster filling". I used AeroGloss butyrate for covering for years but I switched when I realized that nitrate does provide better adhesion of silkspan to balsa. I tend to believe the other things the label says about the product, as well. Open framework areas often need several applications of dope around the edges when initially covering. Sometimes I have to physically hold a piece in place long enough for it to adhere. Temperature makes a lot of difference when using dope and covering wet and the relative humidity has an even greater effect. Here in southern Arizona the humidity is usually very low, sometimes single digit %, and it's usually fairly warm. That makes wet covering open framework outside rather tricky because the dope dries before the silkspan is securely in place. For open framework, I go to my room, open the window, shut the door, and do the covering. Once I'm sure it's in place, I turn on the fan and leave. When the silkspan has dried, about 10 minutes, I take the covered piece outside and paint on another coat of dope and leave it outside until the odor finally goes away. Usually after sanding and trimming away the silkspan, there will be areas that did not fully adhere so I use Testors wood cement to glue them down and a bead of it around the edges to make sure they are sealed. When it's all dry, a light sanding of the edges will blend it all in. jace314 10-Aug-11 09:20 Thanks so much for sll the info! Maybe its the humidity? I was doing it the garage with the door slightly open to let out the smell. Plus after you apply the sig nitrate just to seal the balsa before actual covering how long do you let it dry? Maybe that was my issue too. Still turned good, just had to hold it a couple times to let things dry. David Duckett 10-Aug-11 09:51 After the last coat of sealing dope has been applied, dried, and lightly sanded, I wait several hours, and sometimes overnight, before covering. It takes quite awhile for dope to actually dry all the way through the wood although it may be dry to the touch. einealtekriegsspiel 07-Mar-16 19:35 invitacion , See my Scratch models . !!!! http://einealtekriegsspiel.blogspot.com.ar/ very rares models , no comercial , handmade every !! Please sign in to comment on this image.