| Image Comments |
| bobgood | 06-Sep-21 18:30 |
| The kitchen project resumes tomorrow so I did a little last min. stuff on Q6. I still need to re-patch the slack panels on port wing - someday..... |
| bobgood | 06-Sep-21 18:31 |
| ....actually it's the starboard wing that needs patching up! |
| bobgood | 07-Sep-21 11:47 |
| I would like any advise from you guys about the best paint to use - spray or tin, and what type & make too. Most of my models have been were finished in self-coloured material. |
| bobgood | 07-Sep-21 11:50 |
| ....and I wish to paint this Q6 part camouflage and part yellow. |
| edtherenderman | 07-Sep-21 12:19 |
| For a model this big, I like to spray, either rattle can or with an airbrush. Prime everything in rattle can automobile primer. This gives a good base on which you can shoot either enamel or acrylic. There are good rattle can camo paints out there that people use for their boats, trucks, etc. I think any "brand name" would work well. Also, I'd stick with one type, either acrylic or enamel. Swapping can cause problems with "checking", "birds eyes" or adhesion. I like acrylics now that I've gotten use to them. Very little smell and pretty durable once they have cured. but in all cases, try them out first, even if all the paint is from the same company. I'd hate to have to refinish after all the work you have done. |
| bobgood | 07-Sep-21 15:00 |
| Thanks Ed - very kind of you - I am inclined towards Acrylic. Would I need to prime the doped surfaces first? |
| heywooood | 07-Sep-21 22:38 |
| to get a uniform finish (without color 'gradients' where the same top coat color is applied over different base coat colors) you will want a uniform base or primer color overall.
As to what will work over doped surfaces, I am no help at all - I don't use dope (I am assuming you mean flammable dope) anymore and do not use tissue coverings at all.
Your model at this stage looks very good and is such a unique subject - just don't think I've ever seen a Percival Q6 modeled before now. It seems to me that once the dope has dried any trace solvents would need other similar solvents to 'reactivate' it and cause problems. This would cause me to think that acrylics would be safe to try. Those are polymer based and less likely to react with the cured dope.
But that's just a guess and I would hate to be wrong. |
| edbecky | 08-Sep-21 09:04 |
| Dadgum house projects seem to get in the way of our models. |
| bobgood | 08-Sep-21 20:12 |
| Thank vey much you two, much appreciated. I now have some direction to go in! |
