| Image Comments |
| David Duckett | 17-Feb-08 18:10 |
| Heavy grade silkspan, applied wet, and attached with NITRATE dope, four sections each side |
| SteveM | 17-Feb-08 18:28 |
| why the nitrate dope, less shrinkage? My Micro-Mark order should arrive in the next day or two and I'll be able to get to work on the cowl. |
| David Duckett | 17-Feb-08 18:36 |
| Nitrate has much better adhesion and sealing characteristics. |
| jerry campbell | 17-Feb-08 19:52 |
| DD what brands are nitrate dope and where do you find it? I use SIG which is Butyrate Dope. |
| David Duckett | 17-Feb-08 20:33 |
| I'm also using SIG, they make both kinds. I get it at the LHS but you can order it from SIG directly. Typing in NITRATE DOPE to your search engine should help find it and explain the differences. |
| jgood | 17-Feb-08 20:33 |
| Jerry, I think SIG make both types of dope - I have a tin of each on it's way to me right now. |
| cdwheatley | 18-Feb-08 02:37 |
| Coming along nicely David. Have you thought about final colour schemes yet? Will it be lozenge patterned?! |
| David Duckett | 18-Feb-08 09:07 |
| I think something a bit less complicated. The lozenge pattern would require a lot of time and and effort at this size. |
| moostang51 | 18-Feb-08 17:08 |
| My LHS is ordering the Nitrate for me, should be in Wednesday. Plan on a final seal coat of the nitrate prior to painting the Mossie. |
| OLD A&P | 18-Feb-08 20:27 |
| Guys, you can get Randolph nitrate dope from Wicks aircraft supply. The same stuf the use on big airplanes. It`s way cheaper and does`t smell as bad. they ad an odorant to model dope to keep people from snifing it. |
| OLD A&P | 19-Feb-08 18:34 |
| Check out wwwwicksaircraft.com They have reg. and non taut nitrate dope. $8.50 a qt. $26.00 a gal. 109.40 for 5 gal. |
| SteveM | 19-Feb-08 18:51 |
| Either I'm looking in the wrong place or you get special pricing. I see the prices as $13.85/41.40/200.50 (watch the $20 hazmat fee if >= 1 gallon), which isn't all that much better than hobby shop prices. Personally, I have no use for more than a pint of the stuff. But I will keep them in mind as a possible source. |
| OLD A&P | 19-Feb-08 20:22 |
| Sorry I gave you the wrong dope on the dope. I was looking at dope thinner prices. It`s still cheaper for me ,because I live close to Wicks and just drive over and pick it up....no shipping. |
| Brian Kostecki | 19-Feb-08 21:31 |
| Moos, pardon me for not paying attention to which dope you said you've used so far on the Mossie, but everything I've read and heard indicates that you don't want to apply nitrate over butyrate or you're risking a poor chemical reaction. Perhaps someone more knowledgeable than I can clear this up, but the guy at my LHS told me the same - nitrate is a good base for butyrate, but not vice-versa. The only written guidance I could find in a quick google search was this FAA Advisory Circular: http://www2.tech.purdue.edu/at/courses/at308/Technical_Links/Ac43-13-1B/CH2_2.pdf. |
| David Duckett | 19-Feb-08 21:57 |
| You are correct, Brian. |
| moostang51 | 20-Feb-08 03:27 |
| Thanks for the heads up, Brian. |
| Brian Kostecki | 20-Feb-08 09:38 |
| No problem. Wouldn't want that beautiful Mosquito to get messed up. |
| hjlittman | 20-Feb-08 17:35 |
| Don Ross' book "Flying Models" has a good table of what finishes can be put over and under which. Nitrate dope can have the problem of too much shrinkage on tissue so it is sometimes plasticized, for lightly constructed models, by mixing in a drop of castor oil to each 1 to 4 ounces of dope. |
