| Image Comments |
| David Duckett | 24-Jan-08 09:12 |
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| Abby Marie | 20-Mar-08 13:44 |
| David, you do a wonderful job in building your models. This B-17 is beautiful. |
| SteveM | 20-Mar-08 15:21 |
| Your next question might be how he covers and paints his models. While his techniques seem to evolve a bit as he tries new stuff, he has posted guides on how he does it. Click on the "links" on the left side of this page then click on "David Duckett's Tissue Covering Tutorial". Next you'll want to check out his Painting with acrylics guide. |
| Abby Marie | 20-Mar-08 15:48 |
| My mom started my interest in models when I was 6 with a 15 cent balsa and paper model from the 5 and dime store. Maybe a new idea is to cover a model with card stock as I did with a Corsair and painted it with areogloss. |
| Abby Marie | 20-Mar-08 15:49 |
| With the card stock I could put small holes from the back side of the card stock to resewmble rivits. Jus a idea from a 74 yr old modeler. (Smile)
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| sweetwillie | 20-Mar-08 17:05 |
| Abby Marie, Greetings from a 70 yr old modeler. I started back to modeling after about 40 or 50 years. and am loving it. I've learned a lot from these guys. They're very kind and helpful. I just covered an AD Skyraider with card stock. And was wondering how I could put panel lines and rivets in it. I was going to put the rivets on with an Sharpie, but I like your pinhole idea. I think I'll try it. |
| Abby Marie | 20-Mar-08 17:22 |
| sweetwillie: Thanks for the greeting. After you put the pin holes in the cardstock that is cut to size, use a small glass or dope bottle and roll the tops of the pin holes to flatten just a little. This gives a great effect to the rivits. |
| Creosotewind | 20-Mar-08 17:54 |
| Welcome Abby. Something a lot of modelers use is a watch gear on a handle. It gives equally spaced indentations and you can run it along a straight edge. I've also used card stock and it helps to have some wooden tools with rounded edges to ease the card around the shapes you want. Right now I am experimenting with tooling aluminum, a softer aluminum but several times thicker than aluminum from a grocery store. I'll be posting photos soon.
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| Abby Marie | 20-Mar-08 19:00 |
| I would love to see a P-51 sheeted with aluminum, but how would a person attatch it to the framework of the model? |
| David Duckett | 21-Mar-08 06:10 |
| Thanks, Abby, and welcome to the site. Using a pin to punch holes in cardstock from the back to simulate rivets is common to all the larger Guillows kits. I have used it on previous models but since I apply lots of paint, the rivets nearly vanish so I no longer use the technique. |
| Creosotewind | 21-Mar-08 10:33 |
| Abby, once I finish my Piper, I'll be working on a Guillows Mustang. A couple of thoughts for sheeting come to mind. You can do what David and others do by adding stringers or filling in between the stringers with balsa, or sheet with 1/32 birch and then add the aluminum. What I have done in the past is to build the model and then fill it with spray foam insulation. Looks ugly at first, but once it it trimmed and sanded down to the original structure, you have a very sturdy framework to glue the aluminum. I've used contact cement previously. The cool thing about this method is the panels can be cut to size just like the full size panels. Voila, instant panel lines. |
