Image Comments |
jerry campbell | 16-Mar-09 18:35 |
Tired of scratch building details I substituted the exhausts from the Guillow 500 series 109. I'm in need of information on making decals from the computer, would those that make decals from their computer tell me the best kind decal paper, decal fixitive, etc to use, also a good web site. |
pfinn | 16-Mar-09 19:06 |
Waterslide decals are common as well as vinyl. "Papilio.com" has a good selection including "White base" waterslide for ink jets as well as laser printers. If you lightly coat your surface with a little turpentine,the decal wil become a bit flexible for more compound curves but becomes even more fragile so extra care is a must. 8 hour no touch time, and what does turpentine do to ones finish of choice? Scary. |
pfinn | 16-Mar-09 19:18 |
Also try "hyas.com" for good "How to". |
SteveM | 16-Mar-09 20:10 |
I use the paper from Micro-Mark, I think John O. still does, at least he did at one point. I print the decals and let them dry for a few days, spray with Crystal Clear, and let dry for a few more days. The decals are not perfect, but they generally come out pretty good. An example would be my IAF version of the Guillow's F-15. |
Creosotewind | 16-Mar-09 20:22 |
Whatever type of decal you order, make sure it fits your type of printer (i.e. laser or inkjet). The manufacturers specify the use. At least Micromark does. |
pfinn | 16-Mar-09 20:36 |
Apperently there's also a "Transparency" setting (for overhead projecters) on some printers that really dumps on the ink. Helps with the saturation of color. |
pfinn | 16-Mar-09 20:37 |
I think this is turning into a "Guillows Forum" subject. |
poppy | 16-Mar-09 21:31 |
For what it's worth, I use Avery Peel and stick label paper, both clear and white. Cut out decal, peel and stick in place, and coat entire model with clear spray. No need for any pre coating of model b-4 using. |