| Image Comments |
| rhysleo | 17-Jun-09 20:21 |
| i am very happy right now because i know i did a much better job than the hellcat. as you can see my silly doberman is in the picture. |
| rhysleo | 17-Jun-09 20:25 |
| i have had to do a lot of gluing on some pieces because they don't pop out very easily and when they do they will sometimes come out and break in half. frustrating. |
| rhysleo | 17-Jun-09 20:47 |
| i would like to have this one fly rubber powered so i dont want to spraypaint it. does any one know what i could use to put color on the white tissue they supply or should i just buy colored tissue? |
| poppy | 17-Jun-09 20:55 |
| Probably best to use colored tissue. The layout looks good! |
| John Cooper | 17-Jun-09 23:08 |
| I either use an ink jet printer to color the tissue or use craft acrylic paints. I dilute the craft paint with a lot of water so that I don't add to much weight. It also helps to start with tissue that is close to the color you want. Note that the Stuka is a tough one to get to fly well with rubber and it is important to keep the weight down. |
| rhysleo | 18-Jun-09 07:16 |
| But i would think that the tissue would get jammed in the printer. how did you get it to work? |
| jgood | 18-Jun-09 07:44 |
| I wonder if Howard is around? He's got lots of experience of flying these Guillows Stukas, I think. To laser print on tissue, you need to put the tissue on a sheet of thicker backing paper, and apply spray mount to make it stick (but still allow it to come off again once the printing is complete). I did my Dr.1 decals this way, although I didn't think of the spray mount idea, I just taped it at the edges. It didn't work too well, I had to print out tons until I got a few without smudges. The 3M spray mount is the way to go. My only concern with flying this would be weight with the kit wood. I think my Guillow's Hurricane is too heavy to fly. |
| rhysleo | 18-Jun-09 07:59 |
| thanks for the advice guys! this helps alot. i am going to think about what i should do with this plane. |
| hjlittman | 18-Jun-09 12:14 |
| Guillow's kits are easy to build, and sturdy, but because of the wood used and the somewhat over engineered structures are heavy. The 500 series Stuka, because of it's small tapered wing, and draggyness. requires a lot of lightening to fly. There are many ways to lighten a Guillow's kit like running the parts sheets through a thickness sander, cutting lightening holes in the parts, reducing the inside profiles of the outlines. The most consistently successful way to do it is by using the kit wood parts as patterns and building with 6 to 8 pound balsa. The balsa in a Guillow's kit will range from 10 to 27 pounds per cubic foot depending on the shipment of balsa they used. If you get one with all 10 pound wood it will be a good flier. I only build with the kit wood when a contest requires it.
I did my Stuka with colored tissue. Any rubber powered model will probably be a better flier if done with colored tissue. If I paint a rubber powered model I use an air brush with thinned acrylic paints (Testor's Acryl) or acrylic artist's ink. Air brushing on tissue takes some practice.
Weigh your Stuka when it's done. If it weighs over 36 grams, with the rubber, it's a shelf model. |
| FLYBOYZ | 18-Jun-09 23:30 |
| If posibal try laser cut kits!The fourmers just pop right out.You spend time building not cuting.It really spoiled me! |
