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Dumas Kit #401, Laird Super Solution by heywooood. Viewed 456 times. Build Thread Next Prev Click image to return. Image Comments heywooood 29-Apr-17 23:40 some progress on the infill - there are some interesting contours to this fuselage - should be fun in the shaping process heywooood 29-Apr-17 23:44 using 3/32" thick sheeting for the infill..same as the GeeBee - it's the best to use on 1/16" stringers because it isn't too thick to dry form but is thick enough to get a good seal while setting it a bit 'proud' for the mudding and shaping process. heywooood 30-Apr-17 23:50 the method requires a good fit. The pieces must not be oversized and cause bowing of the stringers or put undue stress on the bulkheads. That would distort the shape of the fuselage (or wing) and you don't want that at all. So it's ok to be undersized because you can always 'chink' the gaps with bits of balsa or just use filler. I like to fill in as best as possible with balsa so that none of the filler falls into the structure, hardens and then rattles around once the model is complete. We're not making baby rattles here..generally LASTWOODSMAN 01-May-17 08:22 Baby rattles? LOL, giggles - hey Heywood, do you bevel the edges of your infill planks for a tight fit to sit proud? heywooood 01-May-17 09:51 Not usually because I want the maximum contact between the infill part and the stringers. Beveling can reduce that surface area contact to nil and then the sanding process can eliminate the connection completely. That said, I DO bevel the long edges when I add a radius to the part, either a dry formed radius or where the infill piece is soaked in water to achieve a tighter radius. Areas around the tail or cowling for instance, then a bevel is sanded on the mating edges to retain maximum bonding area. Otherwise I just flat sand the edges if the piece is oversized, in order to get a good fit without distortions Please sign in to comment on this image.