| Image Comments |
| edtherenderman | 31-Jul-19 15:37 |
| Note that fairings have been added. This was done with laser jet printer paper, attached with and covered by eze dope. |
| Don C | 01-Aug-19 09:13 |
| Very nice work. |
| lukebozek1 | 01-Aug-19 14:18 |
| How does that EZE Dope compare with the stuff we use now? How many coats do you use? |
| edtherenderman | 01-Aug-19 14:50 |
| @Lukebozek1. When I built models years ago, I used to use the Hot Fuel proof dopes (like Pactra Hot Fuel Proof), so that was what I was used to using. When I got back into this, I bought the EZE Dope from Deluxe Materials. It's water based and about as thick as thin white glue. It goes on very easy and shrinks the tissue drum tight. I do apply the tissue slightly damp, so that is helping also. I put a second coat that I thin 2:1 with water to fill in pores. That's about all you need. It does dry fast and can get a bit globby, so make sure you keep moving and don't put too much on at a time. Clean up is really easy, soap and water, and no brain cell killing fumes!
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| edtherenderman | 01-Aug-19 14:55 |
| Also, I hope I didn't make this sound complicated. The build is very straight foreword. The wood in my kit was very good except for a few very soft stringers that I needed to replace. The only tricky part was me making it more difficult with the 3D pieces. |
| Don C | 03-Aug-19 09:48 |
| Thanks for the info on EZE dope. I've been wondering about how it works. Inhaled a lot of that butyrate when I was a kid. Probably explains a lot. |
| rgood | 12-Aug-19 10:58 |
| This is a very rare bird on VA - excellent work! |
| scigs30 | 12-Aug-19 11:24 |
| She looks great, and yes Eze Dope can be a little tricky I have used on multiple models. My recommendation, thin it 3 parts water to 1 part eze dope. This will help with dry time and "globbiness" Also when you shrink the tissue, shrink with diluted Eze Dope water mixture of 5 percent Eze Dope to water, really helps when you start brushing on Eze Dope. |
| edtherenderman | 12-Aug-19 14:09 |
| Thanks scigs30! I'm going to give this a try. I was worried about thinning it out that much, but if you are having good results, I'll give it a shot! |
| heywooood | 13-Aug-19 07:06 |
| Nice work - those paper fairings look just right which is no easy task.
Beauty! |
| Rapid 1 | 15-Aug-19 12:07 |
| Hello every one
Beautifully built models posted on this site question before applying EZE dope is the UHU stick still the best method to apply the tissue to frame, if you are going to use EZE dope, if this is the case after applying the glue stick, do you still need to apply the tissue on damp then applying the EZE dope ? Can you still apply small pieces of tissue to the model after the EZE dope drys asking as I was interested in using the marking layout in cut out tissue on model in stead of painting .
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| edtherenderman | 15-Aug-19 12:47 |
| Rapid 1, I've never used a glue stick! Never even thought of that! I use the same technique I used with the older fuel proof dopes, I dampen the tissue, place it over the model frame, and then apply EZE Dope on top of the tissue/frame. The EZE Dope penetrates the tissue I'm using, which is pretty porous. The EZE Dope drys so quickly that it is set before the tissue drys out and tightens, so I get a good, tight fit. I then go over the tissue with the thinned EZE Dope to fill in the pours.
This may not work as well with tissue that is not as porous as the material I use.
I've had no problem overlapping tissue and having it hold with the EZE Dope. I generally do my models with many pieces of tissue instead of trying to apply one larger sheet. I've also had to fix things, like holes I made in the model while handling, and have never had a problem. You may want to experiment to see what works best for you. |
| Rapid 1 | 15-Aug-19 15:13 |
| Hi thanks for the information when prepping do you use a light balsa wood filler before covering the model |
| edtherenderman | 16-Aug-19 08:22 |
| I've found over time that spending a lot of effort in pre-sanding parts before fitting them, and ensuring that you get good close joints helps a lot in final prep time. On this model, I didn't do any wood filler, but I have in the past. Generally I use lightweight wall Spackle that you can pick up at most hardware stores. Very light, drys quick and sands easier than the surrounding wood.
On the Sea Fury that I posted here, I used EZE Dope to pre-fill the wood. Brushed it on, let it dry, then a light sanding. There are probably a million ways to do this! I'm sure there are other ideas on the forum! |
| edbecky | 16-Aug-19 11:37 |
| New at this hobby so I'm looking for the best way. I've read that Elmers glue cut with water 50/50 is one way and that's what I've been doing. My question is, will the EZE dope yield that much better results that I should switch over. Laughed hard at Don's comment about inhaling that stuff as a kid. Between that and the plastic glue I used on Revell models I stayed high before I even knew what high was. Yes, that does explain a lot. |
| edtherenderman | 16-Aug-19 14:33 |
| You and me both. I'm surprised I can still think after 50+ plastic model airplanes and sailing ships and balsa aircraft!
I've never tried the white glue method. Maybe someone else has an opinion?
And Welcome to the hobby! I find it really rewarding to take a box of sticks and turn it into something that looks like a real airplane! Looking at your hanger, it looks like you already jumped into scratch building! Outerzone definitely has the selection. I've about 20 plans queued up now! The hard decision is which is next! |
| Rapid 1 | 17-Aug-19 13:22 |
| Just a comment does anyone know of any top quality full laser cut free flight kits of the Focke Wulf FW 190
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