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| LASTWOODSMAN, Comment for image # 39452 | 06 Oct 17 15:08 |
| Thanks John. I just painted the dowel red now, for the model show ... |
| John M Oshust, Comment for image # 39452 | 06 Oct 17 14:44 |
| If it did not have the dowel thru the fuselage for its rubber, it could be viewed as almost scale. BRAVO, |
| John M Oshust, Comment for image # 39452 | 06 Oct 17 14:44 |
| If it did not have the dowel thru the fuselage for its rubber, it could be viewed as almost scale. BRAVO, |
| LASTWOODSMAN, Comment for image # 39452 | 06 Oct 17 12:34 |
| Thanks Don. |
| Don C, Comment for image # 39452 | 06 Oct 17 09:59 |
| Nice work! |
| LASTWOODSMAN, Image # 39452 | 05 Oct 17 21:33 |
And, it is rubber powered for Free Flight (even though I think it is way too heavy) - I am almost afraid to weight it and calculate the wing loading - under 0.5 grams per square inch of wings SHOULD fly ... |
| LASTWOODSMAN, Image # 39451 | 05 Oct 17 21:30 |
I dusted it all off, and it is now ready for the Model Show on Oct 14, 2017 at the Historic Hangar at Windsor Airport. |
| LASTWOODSMAN, Image # 39450 | 05 Oct 17 21:28 |
I put in the new pilot and added the cockpit combing. |
| LASTWOODSMAN, Image # 39449 | 05 Oct 17 21:27 |
It has a new scaled-down photocopy of an instrument panel. |
| LASTWOODSMAN, Image # 39448 | 05 Oct 17 21:24 |
It has the new (and long time coming), scale, laminated "AXIAL" prop and hub - my best effort - it is a little too large and thick, but better than too small ... |
| LASTWOODSMAN, Image # 39447 | 05 Oct 17 21:21 |
Well, it is finally all done - my Thomas Herr designed "FOKKER D7" WW1 German biplane fighter - arguably the BEST fighter of WW1. |
| LASTWOODSMAN, Image # 39441 | 03 Oct 17 22:27 |
Closeup of the two sizes, and two colors, of bolt heads on the two bolt circles on the prop hub, with one dressmaker's pin in the middle of the hub. The bolt heads are not exactly perfectly located, but, it was the best I could do. |
| LASTWOODSMAN, Image # 39440 | 03 Oct 17 22:23 |
Here is the finished prop, with that 90 degree bend of the prop shaft glued into the recessed trough in the propeller face behind the prop hub, and the removeable nose block, all assembled to the prop. |
| LASTWOODSMAN, Image # 39437 | 03 Oct 17 22:12 |
Here I started putting in the silver smaller Dressmaker's pins. I centered the hub with a pin in the middle and then 2 more pins. I then drilled small 0.025" holes through the hub holes and into the prop wood, but not too far. Then I cut the pins short so as not to go through the other side of the prop. Then I used needle nose plliers to start inserting the 0.023" diam pins into the predrilled holes, then pushed the heads of the pins down the rest of the way, even with the hub face. I did not even need to use any glue - the last part of the pin shafts went through undrilled balsa. |
| LASTWOODSMAN, Image # 39432 | 03 Oct 17 11:08 |
Six large bolt heads are in, and six smaller bolt heads to go. Starting to look like a prop hub! |
| LASTWOODSMAN, Image # 39431 | 03 Oct 17 11:05 |
Here I have started to put in the larger brass coated Escutcheon pin heads into the prop hub to simulate bolt heads. I used side cutter pliers to snip off the shaft below the head, to just under 1/16" length so that they would not protrude past the 1/16" balsa plate of the hub. I made a little tool, at the bottom right, from a piece of file folder cardboard. I cut a little slot in the cardboard for the short pin shaft to sit in, with the head of the pin sitting on top of the file folder cardboard. I held the cardboard, lining the pin head up with the hole in the prop hub, then pressed on the head to push the short shaft into the hole, and then slid the cardboard out. It was a snug fit and i didn't even need any glue. |
| LASTWOODSMAN, Comment for image # 39425 | 02 Oct 17 16:09 |
| Oh - I forgot - I used a steel rule and exacto knife and a cutting board to cut the hub plate circle out of the over size balsa plate, as close as I could, and just sanded up the points on the edges with a sanding block, up to and even with, the round edge of the chrome outer circle. |
| LASTWOODSMAN, Image # 39426 | 02 Oct 17 15:47 |
The 90 degree bend at the tip of the prop shaft, will sit inside the small, recessed, groove slot trough. I made this trough using a steel ruler and the sideways tip of an awl, to push this trough into the balsa, at the front of the prop face, and going sideways for 6 mm from the prop shaft center. It will be glued in there deep enough, with 5 min Epoxy, in order to keep the front prop face flat, in order to receive the flat of the new prop hub. |
| LASTWOODSMAN, Image # 39425 | 02 Oct 17 15:37 |
The six inner bolt circle holes were enlarged to the larger, brass-coated, Escutcheon pin shaft diameter (head = 3.0 mm diam , shaft = 0.050" diam), and the six outer circle holes were already enlarged just larger than the smaller, shiny steel, Dressmaker Pin shaft diameter (head = 1.5 mm diam , and shaft = 0.0235" diam). I then stuck all those pins into the new hub holes to check the fit and look. At the left, there are 4 small brass washers on the prop shaft between the new removeable prop block and the propeller. You can also see a 90 degree bend of 6mm, that I put into the front of the wire prop shaft. The old nose block with thrust button, and the old practise hub, are at the end of the wooden dowel. |
| LASTWOODSMAN, Image # 39424 | 02 Oct 17 15:25 |
I then inked on the cross hatch points on the two bolt circles with the green marker. On these "Xs", I pushed in starter holes, by eye, with an awl. I enlarged all of these holes by chasing through with a 0.0250" drill bit. The "old" design practise hub is on the left between the dime and the nickel. |
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