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Guillows Series 200 - SE5a by Skyediamonds1985
Skyediamonds1985Used Brantley's custom decals. They're thinner than the Guillows and with the use of setting solution, really hugs the surfaces like paint.
John M OshustThese do sink like paint.
biplane guyThat looks great, Skye. What kind of setting solution did you use? Do you apply it over the decal as well? Do you know if it's dope proof? I'm about ready to paint the red stripes on the fuselage and wings of my N2S. Then I will be ready for the decals. I'm thinking of putting some sort of clear finish over the finished product but I'm not sure what to use. Any suggestions? Everything so far is painted with Sig Supercoat Butyrate Dope.
Skyediamonds1985This is for Biplane guy: courtesy of FineScale Modeler. The article was written by Aaron Skinner back in July 2013. I'll add a post script after the "Trouble Shooting section."
Skyediamonds1985Just so you'll know, I skipped all that clear coat and primer stuff, because I was using the heat-shrink Solartex and wanted to preserve the fabric weave pattern that might be lost with all the clear coats. I applied the setting solution mixed with a bit of water, added the decal, worked out the winkles and bubbles using a dampen paper towel. Allowed to semi dry, then added the setting solution itself on top of the decal. Waited a bit, then used a dampened paper towel to dry and wipe off any remaining solution from the surrounding decal.

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Guillows Series 200 - SE5a by Skyediamonds1985
Skyediamonds1985Biplane guy: I suggest instead of using the Graf-x stick-type, try purchasing a small package of blank decal sheets. Most are available through Hobby Lobby or other fine arts and craft stores. They come either white or transparent backgrounds depending on your needs. My guess is to use the white background sheet as ink-jet printers do not print out white ink. The white background will make up for this by simply you making an outline of the letters/numbers then carefully cutting them out "INSIDE" the outline so as to eliminate the outline altogether. Special note: try adding a coat of clear paint (I use Krylon"
Skyediamonds1985Sorry, got cut off by mistake. Before spraying the clear, try spraying a coat of primer on the finished surface of your model (not the decal). Make absolutely sure that you have applied sufficient coats of dope to fill in the weave of the silkspan and be sure to lightly sand between coats to help get rid of the "nap" which is a technical term for the loose fibers from the tissue sanded off. Generously brush off using a dry brush followed by use of a lightly damped paper towel, then tack cloth. Make sure the surface is absolutely free of any loose fibers or dust.... and totally dry. Then add the primer. After lightly the sanding of primer and making sure all blemishes are removed (again generously dry brushing followed by use of a lightly dampened paper towel, repeat this stage until all the loose primer/dust is removed, then use of tack cloth), when its all totally dry, then shoot a coat of the clear. Apply the decals as you wish. What is missing from the article, is the additional application of the final coat of clear over both the dried decals and colored paints (the whole enchilada). At this stage, you don't have to wait until the whole model is completed. You can shoot the protective clear over finished sub-assemblies such as the tail, fuselage, and separate wings and their control surfaces. You have a choice of gloss or flat. My guess is you'll be using the gloss (again) to help replicate the glossy finish of the real biplane. This protects both the decals and paints from fuel and handling. Hope this helps. Let me know if you need more info.
Skyediamonds1985Use the ink jet printer on the blank decal sheet as you would for the Graf-X.... If you can't find any blank decal sheets or your local arts and crafts store doesn't have them, this is a really neat trick. Use ordinary mailing labels that you have to lick with your tongue to stick on to the box/package. Paint the back of the mailing label (the glue side) with your choice of paint. Simply make outlines of your letters and numbers with a pen. Carefully cut out the letters/numbers (again) inside the outline as the ink from the pen will dissolve and run down). Then dip the cut outs into water. The glue backing dissolves in water and thereby allows the paint to slide off, becoming its own decal... :0)

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Guillows Series 800 - Stearman PT-17 by biplane guy
biplane guyAnother look at the air intake.
Skyediamonds1985Biplane, your level of attention to detail is superb. The propeller is very nicely done along with the ignition harness. You added something I forgot. I forgot to add the connection tubes between the cylinders, but don't tell anyone.... ;0)
Skyediamonds1985Biplane, just read your questions on my S.E. 5 postings... will gladly answer them there, if you don't mind. That way, we can keep the questions and answers on one posting...

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Guillows Series 400 - BF 109 by Anders
Skyediamonds1985Looks great.! Very creative. Great attention (and lots of work) to detail.
Don CComing along nicely. Is the picture a hint of what armament it will carry?
AndersThank you both for the Nice words. 308 would be a bit off scale on this one :) not going to go all in on the details, but some detail is planned.

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Skyediamonds1985 Guillows Series 200 - SE5aBuild 02-May-16 22:31
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Biplane guy: I suggest instead of using the Graf-x stick-type, try purchasing a small package of blank decal sheets. Most are available through Hobby Lobby or other fine arts and craft stores. They come either white or transparent backgrounds depending on your needs. My guess is to use the white background sheet as ink-jet printers do not print out white ink. The white background will make up for this by simply you making an outline of the letters/numbers then carefully cutting them out "INSIDE" the outline so as to eliminate the outline altogether. Special note: try adding a coat of clear paint (I use Krylon"
Skyediamonds1985 Guillows Series 200 - SE5aParked 02-May-16 22:18
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Image views : 8
The second part describes the setting solutions and their name brands. I personally use Micro Set. The Micro Sol, as the article states, is more of a solvent and really works hard on the decal in softening it up. I would try to avoid it, unless you wish to experiment on a sample. Be aware, that the setting solutions literally "grabs" the decals as you lay it down. Thus, I apply a bit of water using a small brush around the desired area. Then dip the brush into the Micro Set and mix it in by rubbing the brush all around the same desired area. Afterward, I apply the Micro Set on top of the decal. Allow it to dry thoroughly. II'm going to post additional info on my next pos
Skyediamonds1985 Guillows Series 200 - SE5aParked 02-May-16 22:12
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Part two of three
Skyediamonds1985 Guillows Series 200 - SE5aParked 02-May-16 22:11
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Part one of three on decals. Please let me know if you can read this.
David Duckett Berkeley Douglas F4D SkyrayReference 02-May-16 18:49
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David Duckett Berkeley Douglas F4D SkyrayReference 02-May-16 18:47
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Saguaros and Palo Verde trees in bloom
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