| Image Comments |
| Southborough_man | 14-Apr-20 14:53 |
| Did two easiest surfaces with new (to me) Eze Dope |
| Don C | 14-Apr-20 16:28 |
| Looks good. Did you thin it like Ed did?
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| Southborough_man | 15-Apr-20 08:06 |
| Not sure what Ed did. I did 5% for wetting tissue and 50% 50% for sealing the new balsa, putting on wet tissue where it touched the outer balsa, and then again to stick down tissue after I cut it when it is dry. |
| Don C | 15-Apr-20 09:44 |
| Thanks.
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| edtherenderman | 15-Apr-20 10:15 |
| Question: Are you doping all the tissue or just using it to stick it to the balsa? Just curious because I use about 5-7 coats of dope at 2:1 (dope to water) to shrink the tissue and fill it so that it will not wrinkle at all when paint and decals are applied. Of course, this makes it heavy, but since I'm making display models, I'm not that concerned. |
| Southborough_man | 16-Apr-20 06:57 |
| Ed, I am REALLY glad you asked your question/made your observation!! I had been worrying about what would happen when I paint. You have answered my question. I too am doing this for display only so I will do as you have done when I am done doing all the tissue. Wing will be done today and then multi days to do all the individual sheets on the fuselage. |
| edtherenderman | 16-Apr-20 08:04 |
| Great! Glad I could help! This is probably obvious, but one thing I found is that I have to weigh down the part on a flat surface while the dope drys. Otherwise it may warp the part. Once that happens, it's really hard to correct. For your rudder, I would apply to one side while it is held down on a flat surface. Once dry, flip it over and do the other side. Repeat until the paper doesn't wrinkle anymore. |
| Southborough_man | 16-Apr-20 09:45 |
| Haha. Nothing is obvious to me! I haven't done a stringer and tissue model since I was a kid. Did you pin the parts down or actually weight them? Thanks again. |
| Don C | 16-Apr-20 09:48 |
| That's what I have been wondering about. I tried it a year or so ago and had severe warping. I actually tossed the horizontal stab and built a new on and went back to dope. Thank you both. |
| edtherenderman | 16-Apr-20 10:12 |
| I weighed them with things I had on my workbench (paint tins, etc.) However, I don't know why you couldn't pin them. If you have T-pins that would be ideal since you could pin around the outside and use the T to hold the part down. I'd just make sure you hold as little of the wood as possible because the dope can glob under the pin or weight and stick it to the part. Found that out the hard way! |
| Southborough_man | 16-Apr-20 10:20 |
| I have T pins. Great idea to use the T to hold the part down. Nothing like the voice of experience 8-) |
| edtherenderman | 16-Apr-20 10:27 |
| This is a nice looking build, and welcome back to the hobby! |
| Southborough_man | 16-Apr-20 13:43 |
| Thanks. |
| Southborough_man | 16-Apr-20 15:06 |
| Ed, I won't be able to pin down the fuselage. What did you do in that case? |
| edtherenderman | 16-Apr-20 16:05 |
| Hmm. The fuse should have quite a bit of support because of of all the formers and stringers. But, what I'd recommend is tissue the entire fuse, then dope a section around the entire circumference of the fuse, say between formers f1 and f2. Let it set up, then do f2-f3, f3-f4, etc until you are done, then start the second coat at f1-f2 and repeat. Also, make sure you put the grain of the tissue facing the same direction along the entire fuse. Tissue tends to shrink in one direction more than another. I would probably put it with the grain following the length. But I think it is more important to be consistent.
Perhaps someone else on the site has a different method? |
| Southborough_man | 16-Apr-20 18:30 |
| I am just putting tissue on my fuse and it will take several days to do all 38 sections. I will keep checking back here to see what other thoughts people have. Thanks Ed
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| Southborough_man | 22-Apr-20 15:12 |
| Ed, I have finished with 5 coats on the fuse. The tissue is tight as a drum. Thanks again for the advice |
