| Image Comments |
| SteveM | 26-Feb-08 13:35 |
| Still having issues with the kit tissue. |
| SteveM | 26-Feb-08 13:39 |
| Rudder was covered dry then shrunk with water - it warped. The stabilizer was covered dry then sprayed with crystal clear - not enough shrinking. Basically I will run out of kit tissue before I figure out the proper way to use this stuff. Dumas will sell me more at $0.50 a sheet plus $7 shipping, but I'd just as soon order from Easy Built Models and get tissue for other kits as well. Suggestions of other sources of colored tissue are welcome. |
| SteveM | 26-Feb-08 13:43 |
| I guess I could also mention that the plane on the building board is a Peck-Polymers One Nite 28 that I am building and modifying per the Don Ross book shown in the picture. In fact, it should look similar to the plane on the cover when done. |
| John Cooper | 26-Feb-08 15:01 |
| Steve, preshrink the tissue on a frame to help lessen warping. When you cut it off the frame it will be very flat and therefore easy to apply to the stab and rudder. You can also find domestic tissue in card stores, like Hallmark, dollar stores, and craft stores like Michaels. Michaels have a pretty good selection.
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| SteveM | 26-Feb-08 15:47 |
| I tried the preshrink w/o a frame but the tissue bunched up and didn't smooth out when I wetted it again. Other than a very rough texture, it worked quite well. Based on that I think I should try the preshrink in a frame as you have suggested. |
| cdwheatley | 26-Feb-08 15:54 |
| Probably a silly question, but I presume you're keeping the parts flat while they dry after having been sprayed with water?! I've always done this and never had a problem with warping, even on my super lightweight Fokker D.VIII. |
| Skip | 26-Feb-08 16:07 |
| Steve, I can certainly relate with the issues your having on this Dumas kit. I am having a similar problem with the Zero. I noticed as I was building all of the frameworks, I had to be extremely delicate in handling the balsa stringers and spars. In my kit, the 1/16 sq strips, were very soft and were constantly breaking. My stabilizer warped somewhat after it dried. Here is a dumb question. What is this pre-shrinking of the tissue all about? Do you literally wet the tissue, let it completely dry and then apply it to the frames with the dope or glue stick. |
| SteveM | 26-Feb-08 16:17 |
| The rudder I did like my Guillow's kits, wet both sides then just let it dry. After the warping I rewetted and held it flat but managed wrinkle up some of the tissue, though the warping is now minimal on it.
Skip, my Dumas balsa is also very light and very fragile. The fragile balsa is probably the reason I am having warping issues that never showed up on Guillow's kits. But I am hoping that the light balsa (I weighed one stick as being just 6.5 lbs/ft.cu.) will give me a good flier. My understanding of preshrinking is pretty much as John Cooper described and you phrased in your question. I have seen guides on how to do this but now that I need to do it I can't seem to locate one. I'll give the preshrink on a frame technique a try tonight and post pictures if I can get it to work out ok. |
| SteveM | 26-Feb-08 16:33 |
| I have found an article on pre-shrinking tissue using Future Floor Finish over at the SFA. The article is actually regarding the use of Future as a dope substitute in a variety of uses. |
| John Cooper | 26-Feb-08 16:44 |
| Skip, soft delicate balsa is a sign of a good kit :) The extra care requied to handle it is worth the weight savings. Pre-shrinking is all about avoiding warps after it is applied to the wing or tail. This warping could occur after some time, due to changes in humidity. The simplest way is to make a frame out of a cardboard box by cutting a large window on one side of the box, leaving about 1" around the edges. Glue the tissue to the edge with carpenters glue. Spray wet it and allow it to dry. You may have to wet the corners a couple times because wrinkles like to show up there. When you cut the tissue off of the frame it will be very flat and a little bit stiffer. |
| Skip | 26-Feb-08 17:07 |
| Yeah, John, you're right about the quality. The Dumas kits are superb. This Zero was my first Dumas kit ever and geting used to this soft wood, well, it was a learning curve for me. I do appreciate everyones help in this. BTW, I can't find any UHU glue sticks down here (Baton Rouge LA). Is there another brand of equal quality. My wife hid all of my clear dope because of the odor. I don't like the White Glue. Thanks. |
| scigs30 | 26-Feb-08 17:14 |
| For building light structures I always preshrink my tissue. I use a large wooden picture frame that I bought at a thrift store. I glue the tissue on the frame and preshrink it. When I apply the tissue on light tail surfaces I do not shrink again, instead I just apply my 2 coats of dope. Hope this helps. |
| OLD A&P | 26-Feb-08 17:27 |
| I use Easy Built Tissue & I really like it. Attatched with glue stick. After I spray with water,I dry with hair dryer. Also dry after coats of clear krylon with hairdryer. If its a verry light frame,I pen it to the board and dry it. Been doing it like this for years & it works for me. I have purchased gift shop tissue ,years ago, when tissue was hard to come by, but the stuff did`nt shrink. It kind of fell apart......Silkspain I put on wet, with nitrate dope & dry with hairdryer. |
