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| jgood, Comment for image # 43502 | 11 Oct 21 09:48 |
| Very nice, Dad! |
| bobgood, Comment for image # 43502 | 10 Oct 21 23:38 |
| Thanks chaps! Good to have your words..... |
| heywooood, Comment for image # 43502 | 10 Oct 21 20:53 |
| well I can't stop gaazing at this model Bob |
| bsadonkill, Comment for image # 43502 | 10 Oct 21 17:55 |
| I like the interior detail, looking good. |
| bobgood, Comment for image # 43502 | 10 Oct 21 15:57 |
| That should have read as "Glazing" not gaazing! |
| bobgood, Image # 43504 | 10 Oct 21 15:56 |
Hope that this works! |
| bobgood, Image # 43503 | 10 Oct 21 15:56 |
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| bobgood, Image # 43502 | 10 Oct 21 15:55 |
Back to Q6 after a few weeks off due to kitchen and other home jobs to be done. |
| bobgood, Comment for image # 43421 | 11 Sep 21 11:05 |
| Today we all remember the loss of life in the 911 Twin Towers attach. Thinking of them and their relatives. |
| bobgood, Comment for image # 43421 | 11 Sep 21 11:03 |
| Thanks Crob - I will look at that! |
| crob, Comment for image # 43421 | 11 Sep 21 10:23 |
| Would a section from a 2 L coke bottle work? Up around the cap almost looks like the same curve. |
| bobgood, Comment for image # 43421 | 10 Sep 21 13:02 |
| I did try heat-forming that 1/16" Acrylic sheet, for the front windshield, but I could not hack it - It when all over the place, but not where I wanted it! |
| bobgood, Comment for image # 43421 | 08 Sep 21 20:18 |
| All now glazed with 1/16" Acrylic sheet. Just that curved front screen to do......not sure how I will do that yet! |
| bobgood, Image # 43421 | 08 Sep 21 20:15 |
The cabin side windows were a little under-sized - so I opened them up to scale proportion. |
| bobgood, Comment for image # 43417 | 08 Sep 21 20:12 |
| Thank vey much you two, much appreciated. I now have some direction to go in! |
| edbecky, Comment for image # 43417 | 08 Sep 21 09:04 |
| Dadgum house projects seem to get in the way of our models. |
| heywooood, Comment for image # 43417 | 07 Sep 21 22:38 |
| to get a uniform finish (without color 'gradients' where the same top coat color is applied over different base coat colors) you will want a uniform base or primer color overall.
As to what will work over doped surfaces, I am no help at all - I don't use dope (I am assuming you mean flammable dope) anymore and do not use tissue coverings at all.
Your model at this stage looks very good and is such a unique subject - just don't think I've ever seen a Percival Q6 modeled before now. It seems to me that once the dope has dried any trace solvents would need other similar solvents to 'reactivate' it and cause problems. This would cause me to think that acrylics would be safe to try. Those are polymer based and less likely to react with the cured dope.
But that's just a guess and I would hate to be wrong. |
| bobgood, Comment for image # 43417 | 07 Sep 21 15:00 |
| Thanks Ed - very kind of you - I am inclined towards Acrylic. Would I need to prime the doped surfaces first? |
| edtherenderman, Comment for image # 43417 | 07 Sep 21 12:19 |
| For a model this big, I like to spray, either rattle can or with an airbrush. Prime everything in rattle can automobile primer. This gives a good base on which you can shoot either enamel or acrylic. There are good rattle can camo paints out there that people use for their boats, trucks, etc. I think any "brand name" would work well. Also, I'd stick with one type, either acrylic or enamel. Swapping can cause problems with "checking", "birds eyes" or adhesion. I like acrylics now that I've gotten use to them. Very little smell and pretty durable once they have cured. but in all cases, try them out first, even if all the paint is from the same company. I'd hate to have to refinish after all the work you have done. |
| bobgood, Comment for image # 43417 | 07 Sep 21 11:50 |
| ....and I wish to paint this Q6 part camouflage and part yellow. |
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