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Creosotewind, Comment for image # 18653 | 20 Jul 10 16:29 |
Really, really nice. Great job! |
iseaalbert, Image # 18656 | 19 Jul 10 16:17 |
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iseaalbert, Image # 18654 | 19 Jul 10 13:50 |
from the large windows you can even see the shoelaces. |
iseaalbert, Image # 18653 | 19 Jul 10 13:49 |
captain |
iseaalbert, Image # 18652 | 19 Jul 10 13:48 |
My sis is helping with the attire. collar and cuffs will be made from plasticard. |
stirling, Comment for image # 18651 | 19 Jul 10 13:48 |
Very clever!!! |
iseaalbert, Image # 18650 | 19 Jul 10 13:44 |
captain |
iseaalbert, Image # 18649 | 19 Jul 10 13:43 |
boeing 737 nose section |
iseaalbert, Comment for image # 18046 | 10 Jul 10 14:24 |
Sorry I had not seen this message before. I used medium weight cloth and two part epoxy. Not waterbased, unfortunately because is very messy. If there's waterbased, I'd like to try it. |
Creosotewind, Comment for image # 18046 | 25 May 10 11:32 |
You are correct about the de-icer boots. They should be black or rubber in color.Tomorrow I'll post some photos of a B-17 I was able to crawl around about a month ago. You mentioned you used fiberglas for this kit. I'm thinking of trying that as well. What weight did you use? Is it water-based? Again, great job, and excellent paint. |
Creosotewind, Comment for image # 18035 | 25 May 10 11:29 |
This looks really cool and fun at the same time. Great job on all of your posts! |
frwyflyer, Comment for image # 18033 | 24 May 10 16:50 |
Yes, it does help considerably. Thank you again for sharing your "magic". |
pfinn, Comment for image # 18033 | 24 May 10 15:45 |
Beautiful model and equally concise technique description. Spoken by a true "Shaper/Surfacer". Thank you for sharing iseaalbert. Phil |
iseaalbert, Comment for image # 18033 | 24 May 10 10:27 |
You are right. I forgot to mention, I do use a grinding stone a lot! It appears that it doesn't burn the plastic like the sander does. So the g.s. is used to get to about 1 mm of the final shape. from then on, I use a coarse file or coarse sand paper. When you get very close to the line, you only focus on getting one side right first, and then the other. I'm not sure if this is clear.
I start with the fuselage, taking great care to be pleased with the profile, particularly where the windshield meets the front nose. If that comes out fine, everything else begins to fall into place. You do need to look at a lot of photos, particularly straight from the top, or in any case, you need to interpret photos of different angles, but I have to stress, that I find that to be the key to a successful model, to capture the essence of the real thing.
Another tip: When no cross sections are available, you can guestimate a contour line from those panel lines that run vertically. This is very helpful in shaping the nose. The union with the radome, for instance, you can see if it's round throughout, or flatter at the top or sides.
One more thing, don't get too hang up on perfection or you'll spend a lot of time without building. I hope this helps. |
frwyflyer, Comment for image # 18033 | 24 May 10 09:44 |
I would very much indeed like to see how you work with acrylic and your construction techniques. I "played with" acrylic material years ago and found it very difficult to work. Any power tools seemed to burn and "smear" the surface. I wound up doing lots of hand sanding and time on a buffing wheel. Your work with acrylic material is beyond description. |
iseaalbert, Comment for image # 18033 | 24 May 10 08:42 |
Of course, next time I'll be sure to document it. |
iseaalbert, Comment for image # 18033 | 24 May 10 08:38 |
I manage some rental units in Argentina, where I live. Lately I've found some time to pick up a hobby I left years ago. |
jgood, Comment for image # 18033 | 24 May 10 08:18 |
This is great. Is there any chance you'll be making more, so we can see the process? |
frwyflyer, Comment for image # 18033 | 24 May 10 05:38 |
Yup, those clear windows really made the model "POP" and get attention. Do you work for a "shop" or freelance? |
iseaalbert, Comment for image # 18033 | 23 May 10 17:55 |
I just looked it up. Sounds like something I'd like to get my hands on. Acrylic has some very good qualities tough, the most important being that after the masking tape is removed, it look clear. In small scale that renders a great effect, even when the interior is void of detail. I have tried some resin block, which I use for larger models and I love it too. |
Build Thread, Page :
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