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| VP46, Comment for image # 6544 | 13 Feb 08 00:41 |
| This is what I was thinking... Feigao - 12mm Brushless Motor LPS (30 Turn) #16345
http://stevensaero.com/shop/product.php?productid=16345&cat=0&page=2 |
| jgood, Comment for image # 6544 | 12 Feb 08 22:31 |
| Yeah, they changed their name a few years back. I just have the old link. Hmmm. What kind of Feiago? IPS sized? |
| VP46, Comment for image # 6544 | 12 Feb 08 20:12 |
| Haha! Bphobbies owns more than one domain I take ;) They are out of stock - this is so depressing .... going to have to go DD brushless Feiago? and say to hell with GWS. |
| jgood, Comment for image # 6544 | 11 Feb 08 21:58 |
| Howabout www.balsapr.com I think that's where I got mine. It's a good place. Nice spreadsheet! |
| VP46, Comment for image # 6544 | 11 Feb 08 20:26 |
| It's the Curse of the appropriate Power system!
bphobbies - is on back order for the LPS-B2C-CS
RadicalRC - is out of stock on the replacement motors (took my paypal money anyway)
Aeromicro - I'm not really interested in trying out motors from Aeromicro anymore.
Anyone have another vendor or can any one suggest another light power system?
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| VP46, Comment for image # 6469 | 10 Feb 08 22:10 |
| Yikes your right - I'm using a prop that appears to be ill matched - - - James? You were using this configuration wern't you? |
| VP46, Comment for image # 6469 | 10 Feb 08 21:49 |
| hah, a multimeter would be easier ;)
Fingers crossed the new motor sorts it - I'll be bringing to Aeromicro tomorrow, he has some kind of fancy multimeter that meters the voltage? Amperage? as it is hooked up inbetween Batt/ESC/Motor. It's pretty trick whatever it is. |
| SteveM, Comment for image # 6469 | 10 Feb 08 21:09 |
| Put four alkaline cells in series to get 6 volts, then hold the leads to your tongue. Then compare the strength of the jolt to the one from your plane's battery pack. I guess instead of your tongue you could use the brightness of a light bulb for the comparison.
The EP7060 prop appears to be matched to the 'C' gearbox with a 6.2:1 gear ratio. If used with the 'A' gear box (4.0:1) it would draw more current and would make it easier to overheat the motor and melt the wire insulation in the windings. Regardless, it is hard to say why your motor died, let's hope the new one works better. |
| VP46, Comment for image # 6469 | 10 Feb 08 20:21 |
| The Battery BTW is an etec 7.4 volt 300 HP - not sure what the HP stands for. bought this over the 7.4 250 mah becuase they were out of them.
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| VP46, Comment for image # 6469 | 10 Feb 08 20:19 |
| I need to get a multimeter. Anyway to "eye" 3 volts with out one?
The short on the motor concept is wierd - I literally taxied it twice.....lobbed it a few feet off the ground only to nose dive on the lawn and break the motor mount and bend the motor shaft.
I fixed the mount and the shaft - taxied it around for that last 10 min or so run....then it decides to short? Makes no sense to me - but I suppose if its not heat damage then it must be something is shorting. |
| VP46, Comment for image # 6522 | 10 Feb 08 20:12 |
| Airstairs...this keyboard is small. |
| VP46, Image # 6521 | 10 Feb 08 20:11 |
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| VP46, Image # 6515 | 10 Feb 08 20:08 |
All bones on my Son's shelf. |
| SteveM, Comment for image # 6469 | 10 Feb 08 19:57 |
| Since it spins freely but turns slowly when powered up, I am going to guess that the windings are shorted somewhere and causing a large current draw but little magnetic field with which to turn the rotor. Unless you have a multimeter it is difficult to troubleshoot accurately. If you have one, check the motor resistance, battery voltage unloaded and loaded, and the current being drawn by the motor. And if you are using a lithium polymer battery don't drop below 3 volts per cell or it will be irreversibly damaged. |
| VP46, Comment for image # 6469 | 10 Feb 08 19:21 |
| Oh and yes the Prop does spin freely.
Thanks for helpping trouble shoot this - I'm 90% certain its the motor. You could smell it just now after turning slowly direct connect to the batt. Also, please excuse the Typos - - typing fast as my wife is bugging me to go to the Grocery store. |
| VP46, Comment for image # 6469 | 10 Feb 08 19:16 |
| Batt is most liekly fully charged - Blue flashing light doesn;t even com one and the servos move with Authority....I don't have an extra motor untless you count the cheap 300 and 400 in my ARF's.
BTW - I'm so confident that this model will fly..I can almost taste it :) |
| VP46, Comment for image # 6469 | 10 Feb 08 19:08 |
| Just tried hooing up the motor to the batt directly - nothing until I spun the prop by hand with it hooked up and it worked very slowly.
This is what happened last time only the plastic around the ESC was split. Its not split now and runs the Servos.
I charged the Batt unit the Light on the GWS charger went all the way off. I actually tried charging it again thinking it was the low voltage issue - I'm charging it again now. Fingers crossed but I think there must be an issue with the motor. The prop is the 7060 which is matched to the LPS B2C drive/motor.
Is it possible I have two bad motors from Aeromirco in a row? |
| SteveM, Comment for image # 6469 | 10 Feb 08 16:56 |
| You can also test the motor with a multimeter (if you have one). An open circuit (infinite resistance) or a short (no resistance) would indicate a damaged motor, you should see a resistance of about 10 ohms across the LPS-B2C. If you don't have a multimeter then maybe see if the prop shaft spins freely then connect the battery directly to the motor to see if it will run.
Which gearbox do you have, the A, B, or C? Which prop is it? A prop too large or too small can effect the motor. |
| jgood, Comment for image # 6469 | 10 Feb 08 14:51 |
| One other thought - the ESC probably will not power the motor if the battery voltage is too low. Maybe it didn't charge? The ESC will still power the servos, even if it thinks there is not enough voltage to power the main motor. |
| jgood, Comment for image # 6469 | 10 Feb 08 14:49 |
| Do you have any other motors laying around that you can plug into the ESC? I really don't think it would be heat that would do that. Extreme heat maybe, but I don't see why you would have generated that kind of heat at 7.4V with that tiny pack. The ventilation would have been fine, my Fairchild has almost none, and that runs OK. I hope the ESC is OK. The ESC doesn't have a safety mechanism whereby it won't start the motor until you move the throttle all the way up, and back down again, does it? Some of mine have that. |
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