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LASTWOODSMAN | Scratch Built Curtiss Pusher | Parked | 28-Jan-17 15:53 | | Views : 263 | The wheel rim sharp corners were then sanded by Dremel with 120 grit sanding bands on the Dremel 1/4" Drum Sander. Then I fine sanded everything with 320 grit paper by hand. |
LASTWOODSMAN | Scratch Built Curtiss Pusher | Parked | 28-Jan-17 15:45 | | Views : 251 | The #59, 0.041" felloe holes in the wheel rim were then chased enlarged with a 1.5 mm (0.0565") bit, then a #50 - 0.0695" bit, then a 5/64" 0.0781" bit, and finally a 3/32" 0.0938" bit using a pin vise. I wish I had a drill bit between 5/64" and 3/32" - ie an 11/128" 0.0859" drill bit, which would have been a more perfect, tighter fit, for the 0.080" diameter spokes - next time ... |
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LASTWOODSMAN | Scratch Built Curtiss Pusher | Parked | 27-Jan-17 15:47 | | Views : 266 | The holes already drilled into the rim were from a 0.041" #59 drill bit and Pin Vise. Since the hardwood toothpic spokes are about 0.086" in diameter, I will now chase each one of these 16 holes up to 3/32" or 0.0938" holes for the spokes to have some "wiggle" room in order to attach into the hub holes yet to be made. |
LASTWOODSMAN | Scratch Built Curtiss Pusher | Parked | 27-Jan-17 15:28 | | Views : 261 | This is the greater angle of "Felloe" hole through the wheel rim, for the other side of the wheel to provide a "deeper" dish. I used a smaller 4.4 mm spacer under the hub. In this way, the spokes should, I hope, attach to the hub at equal distances from the hub ends. |
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