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| SteveM, Image # 6968 | 07 Mar 08 18:06 |
This picture illustrates how tight the joints on this plane are. There is no glue in the outer wing sections and no sanding was required to obtain a proper fit. |
| SteveM, Comment for image # 6967 | 07 Mar 08 17:28 |
| I'll try not to get too crazy with the throttle till I learn to fly. But I figure the BL setup will give me the power when I want to start pushing it. |
| jgood, Comment for image # 6967 | 07 Mar 08 17:07 |
| That webbing makes the spar so strong. Definitely no limits on aerobatics on this 'ellcat! |
| SteveM, Image # 6967 | 07 Mar 08 17:01 |
Wing center section is complete (sans flight gear and top front spar). |
| SteveM, Comment for image # 6945 | 07 Mar 08 14:29 |
| Thanks for providing your advice, I wasn't sure if you were still lurking around here or not. If I had any gripes about the kit I would have said so already, but it's been great and I just may have to do the P-38 next.
I spent most of yesterday sneezing and blowing my nose so no progress building, but I did get to read over several of the Guillow's conversion threads. I looked mostly at the 1000 series as they are of similar size to the MM Hellcat. Only one guy used silkspan and said he wouldn't use it again on account of he kept putting his fingers through it while painting. Smokin' Beaver sheets all his and a few other use a variant of plastic. One very nice Stuka was done with a clear plastic (ie. doculam) and sported a very detailed paint job.
Since I don't like to be limited in my color selection I may have to look into painting aerofilm or doculam. |
| mikemolt, Comment for image # 6945 | 07 Mar 08 11:15 |
| Hiya Steve, I'm having fun watching your progress! Looks like you're enjoying yourself, which puts a smile on my face. I used to be a huge Solite fan, but I honestly get tired of how easy it loosens due to temperature changes and general handling. I've pretty much converted to using Solarfilm or as sold on Steven's Aeromodels "aerofilm". It is a bit heavier than Solite, but is more temperature stable. It is shiny, but I think the sheen could be removed by rubbing the covered model down with 00 synthetic steel wool (aka scotchbrite pad). The only risk is that the Solarfilm shrinks with more strength, so it has the potential to damage or warp light structures if you're not careful while using your covering iron.
I've never had much luck painting covering film, but can't say I've tried doculam either. In my opinion, I would not use silkspan.
Keep up the great work.
-Mike Molt |
| SteveM, Comment for image # 6945 | 06 Mar 08 14:36 |
| SIG heavy silkspan is 21 gsm (29 gsm when doped), doculam is around 22-28 gsm depending on thickness, and Solite is 21 gsm.
Ref 1
Ref 2 |
| jgood, Comment for image # 6945 | 06 Mar 08 14:15 |
| Solite is strong and light, but the shinyness and the lack of colours is a problem. Doculam is meant to be very good, and you can paint on it. How does silkspan compare to solite in weight? |
| SteveM, Comment for image # 6945 | 06 Mar 08 12:55 |
| Thanks for the tip poppy, I'll have to look into it if I decide to use the Solite. |
| poppy, Comment for image # 6945 | 06 Mar 08 12:51 |
| Steve, I use a small travel iron that has a teflon base. I think my wife got it at Target. Has adjustable heat settings and breaks down for easy storage. Works great on Monocote. |
| SteveM, Comment for image # 6945 | 06 Mar 08 12:12 |
| I'd like to try heavy silkspan, but haven't had the time to do the proper research. My concern is that silkspan may be easier to puncture and/or may not add the proper strength to the structure (as compared to Solite).
I don't want to use Solite for 3 reasons. Limited color selection, it's plastic, and I don't have the proper tools for it (though I did read about some guy that used a clothes iron to apply it to his MM P-38 ;-). |
| jgood, Comment for image # 6945 | 06 Mar 08 06:39 |
| What are you thinking of covering with, Steve? |
| SteveM, Image # 6945 | 06 Mar 08 05:00 |
Center section of the wing almost done. |
| SteveM, Image # 6944 | 06 Mar 08 04:58 |
Fuselage with motor, battery, and a pair of servos. Weight is already at 118.3 grams (4.17 oz). |
| SteveM, Image # 6942 | 05 Mar 08 23:53 |
Fuselage halves have been glued together. Weight is 22.6 grams. |
| jgood, Comment for image # 6935 | 05 Mar 08 13:06 |
| Yeah - it's really not as complicated as I first thought. It works supurbly on my Tiger Moth and the Dr.1. I think I also had to add a little weight to the nose of my Hellcat, so it might cut down on that too. |
| SteveM, Comment for image # 6935 | 05 Mar 08 13:03 |
| I was just doing a little reading on pull-pull, sounds like it is also a little smoother and more even than a push/pull rod. |
| jgood, Comment for image # 6935 | 05 Mar 08 11:54 |
| I think for my next one, I might do pull-pull controls, to reduce the weight a little more. Not that it really needs any more floating ability... :) |
| SteveM, Image # 6935 | 05 Mar 08 04:27 |
Loving those laser cut stringers. The formers are fragile (before stringers are added) but all of the parts just fall into place and every joint is snug. |
| SteveM, Comment for image # 6920 | 04 Mar 08 14:47 |
| I can see why you're tempted to build another, Mike Molt did a good job when he designed it.
For those of you that haven't built one, notice the notches in the keel for each former? Combine those notches with laser cutting and you have a tight joint that will hold the former upright even with no glue. Very few butt joints like in the Guillow's kits, I can see why the airframe is light but still strong. |
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