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| hjlittman, Image # 26327 | 11 May 12 17:22 |
The rest of the stringers are 8 pound balsa. |
| hjlittman, Image # 26326 | 11 May 12 17:21 |
The formers are still contest grade stuff, 1/32" aft of the C.G., 1/20" forward, and 1/16" for the nose former. |
| hjlittman, Image # 26325 | 11 May 12 17:19 |
OK. Here we go again. After the "crushing failure" of my first attempt at a super light fuselage I searched out a specific piece of balsa to make my strip wood for the keels and the stringers at the edges of the fuselage. Back in the day, when a bill of materiels called out for a compnent to be made of "rock hard balsa" this is the stuff they were talking about. |
| hjlittman, Comment for image # 25837 | 06 Apr 12 20:44 |
| The wings, tail and nose are OK. The fuselage will be better if I just build another one. I just don't have the feeling in the fingertips that I had a few years back. As my Dad (94) says, "Getting old ain't for sissies!" |
| TJH, Comment for image # 25837 | 06 Apr 12 18:25 |
| Glad to know it doesn't only happen to me. |
| SteveM, Comment for image # 25837 | 06 Apr 12 18:05 |
| It's good to know that you are human too. Any thoughts about just replacing the broken strings with something just a hair stiffer but not heavy enough to throw off the balance? |
| hjlittman, Image # 25837 | 06 Apr 12 13:18 |
The OH $%!# moment. I was sanding it prior to coverning. I tried to build it too light. I've started on a new fuselage with the same weight formers, but 8 to 10 pound wood for the stringers. It may still come out under 20 grams although I'll be happy if it's under 30. Luckily, I've done it once so the next one will be quicker. |
| hjlittman, Image # 25832 | 06 Apr 12 13:15 |
Getting a little carried away with the dummy engine. Push rod tubes and ignition harness, top and bottom. Exhaust pipes and intake tracts will be foam. Not true scale but close enough for a flying model |
| hjlittman, Image # 25785 | 03 Apr 12 12:59 |
Schrodinger, research assistant. |
| hjlittman, Image # 25784 | 03 Apr 12 12:59 |
Painting the cylinders |
| hjlittman, Comment for image # 25672 | 30 Mar 12 11:41 |
| Just a little balsa disk to increase the gluing surface. In this case, since the it is not a complete engine, just the cylinders sticking out of the cowling, and nose is tapered sharply, the front cylinders are longer than the rear ones and the bases are cut at an angle to keep the cylinder heads at the same level. (See the photo of the test fit to the nose.) |
| frwyflyer, Comment for image # 25672 | 30 Mar 12 10:15 |
| Question?? Do you fill the cylinder with a balsa dowel for rigidity? My experience with rubber power a little weight in the nose isn't bad. |
| hjlittman, Image # 25674 | 29 Mar 12 20:21 |
Test fit on nose. Slightly enlarged Fiddler's Green J-3 cooling baffles are the right size and shape, but need to be make of light card stock. Exhaust stacks will be foam, pushrod tubes pins. |
| frwyflyer, Comment for image # 25672 | 29 Mar 12 18:14 |
| VERY INTERESTING!! |
| hjlittman, Image # 25673 | 29 Mar 12 18:00 |
1/32 inch "crankcases" to attach cylinder assemblies to nose. Tried to make cylinder baffle air scoops from straw material but plastic has too good a memory. Ended up using paper with baffles printed from Fiddler's Green J3 Cub. |
| hjlittman, Image # 25672 | 29 Mar 12 17:57 |
Cylinder assemblies with Uhu styrofoam glue. It's a contact rubber cement. Apply to both sides, let dry 10 minutes, press together. |
| hjlittman, Image # 25671 | 29 Mar 12 17:55 |
Flex-Straw finned cylinders. |
| hjlittman, Image # 25670 | 29 Mar 12 17:55 |
Foam cylinder heads for L-4 engine. |
| David Duckett, Comment for image # 25561 | 23 Mar 12 18:32 |
| http://news.yahoo.com/photos/45-foot-paper-airplane-takes-flight-slideshow/ :-) |
| jgood, Comment for image # 25561 | 23 Mar 12 17:34 |
| Looks good! |
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