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| David Duckett, Comment for image # 6834 | 28 Feb 08 16:10 |
| I have absolutely NO DOUBT that you will do it more justice than I can so it seems only appropriate that you bring it to life so that we can all watch. Besides, I really appreciate your making the cowling for my D 8!! |
| SteveM, Image # 6834 | 28 Feb 08 15:53 |
Proof that DD is at least as crazy and generous as everyone else around here. |
| cdwheatley, Comment for image # 6819 | 27 Feb 08 15:13 |
| Yes you're probably right Steve, I hadn't thought of that. Best to leave that bit as it is! |
| SteveM, Comment for image # 6819 | 27 Feb 08 14:30 |
| I agree, being able to add airplanes and manufacturers would be nice. But I suspect that could cause more trouble than it is worth. The reason I say it could be trouble is that I don't think it would take long before we have duplicate entries, typos, misspellings, and the like. I know we all mean well, but fixing our good intentions may be more work for James than adding the entries for us. |
| cdwheatley, Comment for image # 6819 | 27 Feb 08 13:49 |
| Well spotted Steve! The 'edit you own post' feature will certainly be very useful, hope it's up and running soon. Another really good one would be the ability to create your own aircraft to add to the list of available ones. |
| jgood, Comment for image # 6819 | 27 Feb 08 10:47 |
| haha, I can't get anything past you, can I Steve?! Hopefully I'll get some time on that tonight. It would be a useful feature. Also - good point on the spell checker in Firefox. I use that almost exclusively. |
| SteveM, Comment for image # 6819 | 27 Feb 08 05:10 |
| Hey, anyone else see that "edit" link James added to the comments? Doesn't seem to work just yet but I'm excited to see it. Next most requested feature is probably the ability to move a photo from one plane to another for those times when you forget to set the proper plane when uploading pictures
Ok, a little info about my tissue issue. Both of these papering jobs came out fairly well and both used some sort of preshrinking (but on a frame this time). The one on the left was preshrunk with water and sprayed with crystal clear after being covered. The one on the right was preshrunk with a mix of 50% Future and 50% water then covered as soon as the tissue in the frame became taut. Both were attached with a glue stick.
The one sprayed with crystal clear is shinier but has a uniform shine to it. The one with Future still has a very matte finish but anywhere I goobered glue it has a shiny area the shape of a goober. The concentration of Future is not enough to water proof it so it would still need more Future or a shot of crystal clear. I've pretty much used up all of the tissue in my kit and will have to order some from Easy Built Models before I can continue with the Corsair. |
| SteveM, Image # 6820 | 27 Feb 08 04:53 |
The hole in the cowl for the thrust bearing has been filled in to provide a tight fit. I am also going to scrap the idea of a portable power unit and just glue this one in place (loosly installed motor = bad vibrations). |
| SteveM, Image # 6819 | 27 Feb 08 04:49 |
The F-15 canopy cleared up nicely with Furture. Two more test pieces but using some spare F-15 tail feathers. |
| OLD A&P, Comment for image # 6795 | 26 Feb 08 17:27 |
| I use Easy Built Tissue & I really like it. Attatched with glue stick. After I spray with water,I dry with hair dryer. Also dry after coats of clear krylon with hairdryer. If its a verry light frame,I pen it to the board and dry it. Been doing it like this for years & it works for me. I have purchased gift shop tissue ,years ago, when tissue was hard to come by, but the stuff did`nt shrink. It kind of fell apart......Silkspain I put on wet, with nitrate dope & dry with hairdryer. |
| scigs30, Comment for image # 6795 | 26 Feb 08 17:14 |
| For building light structures I always preshrink my tissue. I use a large wooden picture frame that I bought at a thrift store. I glue the tissue on the frame and preshrink it. When I apply the tissue on light tail surfaces I do not shrink again, instead I just apply my 2 coats of dope. Hope this helps. |
| Skip, Comment for image # 6795 | 26 Feb 08 17:07 |
| Yeah, John, you're right about the quality. The Dumas kits are superb. This Zero was my first Dumas kit ever and geting used to this soft wood, well, it was a learning curve for me. I do appreciate everyones help in this. BTW, I can't find any UHU glue sticks down here (Baton Rouge LA). Is there another brand of equal quality. My wife hid all of my clear dope because of the odor. I don't like the White Glue. Thanks. |
| John Cooper, Comment for image # 6795 | 26 Feb 08 16:44 |
| Skip, soft delicate balsa is a sign of a good kit :) The extra care requied to handle it is worth the weight savings. Pre-shrinking is all about avoiding warps after it is applied to the wing or tail. This warping could occur after some time, due to changes in humidity. The simplest way is to make a frame out of a cardboard box by cutting a large window on one side of the box, leaving about 1" around the edges. Glue the tissue to the edge with carpenters glue. Spray wet it and allow it to dry. You may have to wet the corners a couple times because wrinkles like to show up there. When you cut the tissue off of the frame it will be very flat and a little bit stiffer. |
| SteveM, Comment for image # 6795 | 26 Feb 08 16:33 |
| I have found an article on pre-shrinking tissue using Future Floor Finish over at the SFA. The article is actually regarding the use of Future as a dope substitute in a variety of uses. |
| SteveM, Comment for image # 6795 | 26 Feb 08 16:17 |
| The rudder I did like my Guillow's kits, wet both sides then just let it dry. After the warping I rewetted and held it flat but managed wrinkle up some of the tissue, though the warping is now minimal on it.
Skip, my Dumas balsa is also very light and very fragile. The fragile balsa is probably the reason I am having warping issues that never showed up on Guillow's kits. But I am hoping that the light balsa (I weighed one stick as being just 6.5 lbs/ft.cu.) will give me a good flier. My understanding of preshrinking is pretty much as John Cooper described and you phrased in your question. I have seen guides on how to do this but now that I need to do it I can't seem to locate one. I'll give the preshrink on a frame technique a try tonight and post pictures if I can get it to work out ok. |
| Skip, Comment for image # 6795 | 26 Feb 08 16:07 |
| Steve, I can certainly relate with the issues your having on this Dumas kit. I am having a similar problem with the Zero. I noticed as I was building all of the frameworks, I had to be extremely delicate in handling the balsa stringers and spars. In my kit, the 1/16 sq strips, were very soft and were constantly breaking. My stabilizer warped somewhat after it dried. Here is a dumb question. What is this pre-shrinking of the tissue all about? Do you literally wet the tissue, let it completely dry and then apply it to the frames with the dope or glue stick. |
| cdwheatley, Comment for image # 6795 | 26 Feb 08 15:54 |
| Probably a silly question, but I presume you're keeping the parts flat while they dry after having been sprayed with water?! I've always done this and never had a problem with warping, even on my super lightweight Fokker D.VIII. |
| SteveM, Comment for image # 6795 | 26 Feb 08 15:47 |
| I tried the preshrink w/o a frame but the tissue bunched up and didn't smooth out when I wetted it again. Other than a very rough texture, it worked quite well. Based on that I think I should try the preshrink in a frame as you have suggested. |
| John Cooper, Comment for image # 6795 | 26 Feb 08 15:01 |
| Steve, preshrink the tissue on a frame to help lessen warping. When you cut it off the frame it will be very flat and therefore easy to apply to the stab and rudder. You can also find domestic tissue in card stores, like Hallmark, dollar stores, and craft stores like Michaels. Michaels have a pretty good selection.
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| SteveM, Comment for image # 6795 | 26 Feb 08 13:43 |
| I guess I could also mention that the plane on the building board is a Peck-Polymers One Nite 28 that I am building and modifying per the Don Ross book shown in the picture. In fact, it should look similar to the plane on the cover when done. |
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