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| Don C, Comment for image # 35503 | 02 Feb 16 12:14 |
| This has been an interesting conversation. Here's my 2 cents worth and a question: I have just soaked 1/16, 3/32 and even 1/8th balsa (soaked is a relative term) with H2O and used wood glue. No problem. Question: What is Lite ply? |
| rayl, Comment for image # 35505 | 02 Feb 16 07:07 |
| Thanks for the offer (Sky) and the short tutorial (DD). It's not that I don't know how to do this job, just never done it before so I have been tinkering with what is most comfortable to me. Turns out that it is the old fashioned Dope method that DD is talking about. |
| David Duckett, Comment for image # 35505 | 02 Feb 16 06:57 |
| Of the 81, + or -, completed models in my hanger, all but the Wright Flyer were covered wet using silkspan and dope was used on all but one as the "glue". I did use white glue once and once was enough. I have documented the complete process in numerous posts on this site and the process is always the same. Obviously other builders use different methods but it's worked quite well for 60 years of building for me so I see no reason to do it differently. Regardless of the method you choose it's important that the frame be sealed before covering, all of the frame. I usually apply two or three coats of nitrate dope thinned to the point I'm comfortable with it and sand lightly after each coat. One application of dope, or white glue will cause the balsa to produce very small spikes which you can feel with your finger. Failure to sand these away will leave a rough surface which will show through any covering, including plastic coverings. |
| Skyediamonds1985, Comment for image # 35505 | 01 Feb 16 20:32 |
| Rayl, if you send me your email, I can help you with the covering. I've done wet/dry applications, dope/thinner and white glue/water. I tied to explain in detail through the "comment section" of this site and I think I blew it up. Skydiamonds1985@yahoo.com |
| David Duckett, Comment for image # 35503 | 01 Feb 16 18:28 |
| Lite ply in 1/64" or 1/32" thicknesses bend easily without wetting and can be sanded easily so none of this really applies. |
| Skyediamonds1985, Comment for image # 35503 | 01 Feb 16 17:52 |
| However which way it works, the model looks great. I'm going the sheeting route myself on the forward fuselage of my S.E. 5 but using 1/32 ply. So, I'm benefiting from this discussion. Thank you guys. |
| David Duckett, Comment for image # 35503 | 01 Feb 16 15:16 |
| There are arguments as to whether Windex actually helps or not. There are those who say the amount of time the wood soaks is more important. I have used Windex but generally just stick with water and I don't think it's necessary to soak a long time. The wood will let you know when it's ready to bend. The correct diameter isn't that important because once dried, the wood will have enough "spring" in it to conform. |
| rayl, Image # 35505 | 01 Feb 16 14:53 |
THis is my "proof of concept" test piece. As I mentioned aearlier, I've never built a covered wing before so I am trying out various methods of covering it. I have tried the dope/thinner covering method, the glue stick method and several mixes of water and water/alcohol to shrink the tissue, just to get comfortable with how to proceed. |
| rayl, Image # 35504 | 01 Feb 16 14:49 |
All of the wing bones and "N" struts done. Now I have to cut away the ailerons before final sanding and sealing. |
| rayl, Image # 35503 | 01 Feb 16 14:44 |
To carry on the conversation that DD started: The engine structure here was wrapped with 1/16" SOFT balsa. I edge-glued sheets together with Cyno then sprayed it down with WIndex, wrapped it around a piece of PVC pipe about the right diameter and let it dry overnight, The sheeting was CYno'd to the structure and trimmed. The front fairing was tacked to the fuselage, sprayed with Windex, then held in place with painters tape until dry (X 2 to get the other side). IT may be just my imagination, but the Windex seems to have just enough Ammonia in it to really relax the wood grain. |
| lukebozek1, Comment for image # 35490 | 01 Feb 16 08:54 |
| This could be my porch, and why my wife is still angry |
| rayl, Comment for image # 35490 | 31 Jan 16 23:09 |
| Yep. |
| Skyediamonds1985, Comment for image # 35490 | 31 Jan 16 20:37 |
| Perhaps you mean "detritus?" |
| Skyediamonds1985, Comment for image # 35490 | 31 Jan 16 19:59 |
| Since this isn't a flying model, my guess is that the fabrication of the "N" struts shouldn't be too much of a problem. |
| rayl, Image # 35490 | 31 Jan 16 14:38 |
Detretuis from converting about 10 ft of 1/8" X 5/16" basswood to airfoil shaped strut material. Now I just have to figure out how to make the joints in the "N" struts. |
| poppy, Comment for image # 35457 | 27 Jan 16 11:33 |
| I love the "bones". Grand work!! |
| Skyediamonds1985, Comment for image # 35458 | 26 Jan 16 20:37 |
| By the Way, I feel a lot better now after posting all of those details on my fabrication of the Wright Bros' engine. Keep up the excellent work! |
| Skyediamonds1985, Comment for image # 35458 | 26 Jan 16 20:35 |
| Rayl.... I was supposed to be working on my S.E. 5, when I was captured by your amazing detailed explanation of your XF-92 build. I couldn't stop reading your posts about the fabrication of the canopy and landing gears. Funny, on your January 15th post, you said you didn't want to tackle the landing gears. Seems as if history repeats itself. Can't thank you enough for taking the time to really go into detail about the heat-shrink of the canopy using plastic bottle method. I've read abbreviated versions, but never as detailed and thorough as yours. Thank you so much! You're also an inspiration for all of us. -Sky |
| Skyediamonds1985, Comment for image # 35458 | 26 Jan 16 16:23 |
| Judging from the way this discussion is going, I guess it would be safe to say "Looking forward to having my ribs and stringers crushed on my future modeling project." -Sky :) |
| pfinn, Comment for image # 35458 | 26 Jan 16 15:57 |
| That guy REALLY gets around! He broke the same rib on my wing FIVE times! Anyway, one thing I learned during my machining days, it's always how you hold/secure your part. Jigs and Fixtures and clamps... |
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